Since i have a 9′ garage ceiling then two 7′ door openings, when installing the doors i opted as one 8′ track to increase the tracks closer to the ceiling then out of the work area. This medium the door has to go increased a foot before it starts back, so traditional openers won’t work. For 20 yrs. I’ve been manually operating the door while now and then looking as one opener solution. The Liftmaster 3800 was the door answer, then the “laser parking assist” the spotting answer. (3″ bumper to door then 3″ grille to workbench, no more tennis tournament ball from the ceiling)
It’s been in service a week then works flawlessly. The quality of the operating unit, cable tension monitor, then latch appears very high. The wall unit, remote, then light a little lesser so but seem adequate as the job.(few moving parts). The instructions are sunny then complete. And it comes with sufficient fasteners as most installations.
My installation was a little lengthly because i’m so picky. (ran a new outlet through the ceiling to get 4″ from the power unit, the parking lot help comes with 8′ of bell wire, needed 20′ – again through the ceiling, the tension monitor needed a spacer block, cut one to fit then painted to match the finished then textured wall, then so on) the latch barely needs a 1/2″ hole instead of 3/4″ if you can lanch accurately. If i did it again i wouldn’t install the latch. The door is insulated then very heavy, i don’t think schwarzenegger could drive it without the spring help.
The barely puzzle i had ended increased being a programming issue of my own making. After setting the open travel limit to the top of the chance – 7′, the door would open but no, non- close. The order troubleshooting section indicated the trouble was the cable tension monitor. I outlook the no, non- the puzzle since it’s roller was 2″ from the drum as recommended then it was under tension with the door open then closed. After 20 mins. Of reprogramming, checking connections then rereading instructions, staring at the monitor when closing diagnosed the puzzle. When the door starts down there is a jerk which slackens the cable as a fraction of a second allowing the tension monitor to close if the door is close to the top but no, non- fully open. Reprogramming to 8′ pulls the cable away from the wall a couple of inches so during the jerk the monitor movement is no, non- sufficient to close. An extra foot of door travel, but it works great!
Please visit A great solution because of a modified door installation for related post.
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